October 9 – October 10 : Te Anau

Te Anau is a charming little town nestled on the shores of Lake Te Anau, the largest lake on New Zealand’s South Island. Often called the “Gateway to Fiordland,” it serves as a starting point for exploring some of the country’s most breathtaking landscapes, including the renowned Milford Sounds. Surrounded by majestic mountains and lush wilderness, Te Anau offers a tranquil escape, perfect for nature lovers, hikers, and those seeking adventure in one of the world’s most pristine environments.

How to get to Te Anau from Queenstown

I am fairly certain there are intercity buses making this connection. By car, it takes about two hours. The main roads in New Zealand are well-maintained, with minimal traffic. The biggest slowdown is the frequent stops you might make to photograph the landscape.

Getting to Milford Sounds

My plan for the first day was to drive straight through Te Anau and continue to Milford Sound (another two-hour drive), making it a total of four hours from Queenstown. This was the only rainy day I’d encountered in New Zealand so far, but I didn’t think much of it. Shortly after passing through Te Anau, I noticed some signs indicating that some road would be blocked due to snow, but I didn’t stop to check if this would affect my route. In my usual happy-go-lucky attitude, I kept driving. Thirty minutes before reaching Milford Sound, I hit the end of the road for that day.

You shall not pass!

Government workers informed me that they were trying to clear the road, but new snow kept coming down from the mountain sides due to avalanches triggered by the rain. They planned to escort a caravan of cars soon, but there would be no way out of Milford Sound until – maybe – the next day. I declined, as I had already booked my nights in Te Anau and since the only two lodges in Milford Sound charge around 500€ per night. I decided to try my luck again the next day, hoping for better conditions. On the return drive to Te Anau, I made several stops, took short walks in the rain, and captured photos of stunning spots along the way, such as the beautiful Mirror Lakes and various scenic viewpoints.

Milford Sounds

The next day, the southwestern Fiordlands were blessed with sunshine, and upon leaving Te Anau, I noticed that the signs now indicated the road was open. I managed to reach Milford Sound without any issues. As I drove through the narrow valley, flanked by steep mountains, it became clear how easily this road could be blocked by avalanches. There’s also a one-lane tunnel where you may have to wait up to seven minutes for the traffic direction to switch. However, this wait is far from boring – you can safely step out of your car, take photos of the stunning scenery, and soon the waiting cars will be “visited” by friendly Kea birds. These large, parrot-like birds are not shy at all, hopping from car to car and leisurely strolling across roofs and windshields. It’s quite a peculiar sight to see such tropical-looking birds in a snowy, mountainous environment.

Bird is the word.

Milford Sound’s “village” essentially consists of a parking lot, a cruise terminal, and the two lodges mentioned earlier. There are only two main activities here: joining one of the many cruises that take you through the majestic fjords (about two hours) or starting the Milford Track, a multi-day hike that’s probably New Zealand’s most famous. Since the huts along the route can only accommodate a limited number of hikers per night, pre-booking is essential. The slots open once a year for the entire following year and typically sell out in less than an hour. Wow. Naturally, I wasn’t prepared for that (and a multi-day hike wasn’t on my agenda anyway), so I opted for one of the cruises. A clever tour salesman had sold me the cruise back in Queenstown. Luckily it was not problem to postpone it by a day due to the road closure. However, I doubt pre-booking is necessary at all – there were plenty of boats and operators, with departures every half hour.

Other things to do around Te Anau :

I didnt leave Te Anau without visiting the Waiau River about 10km south of Te Anau – or the Anduin River as it was called in a certain movie trilogy 🙂
If you don’t apprectiate the Lord of the Rings (shame on you) here are some other things that can be done around Te Anau:

  • Explore Fiordland National Park – Hike scenic trails like the Kepler Track or shorter walks such as the Lake2Lake trail.
  • Glowworm Caves Tour – Take a boat ride across Lake Te Anau to visit the magical glowworm caves.
  • Lake Te Anau Scenic Cruise – Enjoy a relaxing cruise around New Zealand’s largest lake, surrounded by mountains and forests.
  • Wildlife Centre – Visit the Te Anau Bird Sanctuary to see native species, including the endangered takahē.
  • Jet Boating on the Waiau River – Experience an exhilarating jet boat ride through stunning river landscapes.

If you read all of that (and only then 😉 ), you deserve clicking through the pictures of Milford Sounds and the other sights I visited :

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