February 9 – February 10: Montevideo

Montevideo, the capital of Uruguay, is a vibrant and culturally rich city located along the Río de la Plata. Home to around 1.3 million people, it is the country’s largest city and its cultural heart. Montevideo boasts a blend of European and Latin American influences, with a legacy of Spanish colonial architecture, art deco buildings, and a thriving contemporary arts scene. The city is known for its relaxed atmosphere, with a mix of urban energy and coastal charm, offering a welcoming environment to both locals and visitors alike.

Montevideo is not a very small city, but I found it quite walkable nonetheless. It’s more compact (and safer) than Buenos Aires, and I never felt uncomfortable, even walking on quiet streets after dark. That said, some points of interest are several kilometers apart, and if you don’t want to rack up 26 km of walking like I did, using an Uber or local buses are good options for getting around. There is no subway network in the city.

• Enjoy free panoramic views: Visit the Intendencia de Montevideo (City Hall) and take the elevator to the 22nd floor for rooftop views of the city.
• Head to the free-entry Museo Nacional de Artes Visuales in Parque Rodó, where you can explore a variety of Uruguayan art.
• Relax at Parque Rodó: Spend some time in this lush, expansive park, which offers green spaces, a serene lake, and scenic walking paths.
• Spend time at the beach: Montevideo’s beaches, such as Playa Pocitos, are great for sunbathing, swimming, and enjoying the coastal atmosphere.
• Taste traditional Uruguayan dishes: Don’t miss out on iconic foods like Chivito (a steak sandwich), Sorrentinos (a local kind of stuffed pasta) or a hearty asado (barbecue).
• Experience the Llamadas Parade: If you’re in the city during Carnival, catch the vibrant Llamadas Parade, which celebrates Afro-Uruguayan culture with lively music, dancing, and colorful costumes. This obviously happens only once per year but I was lucky to be in town during the right weekend for this.
• Browse the Sunday Flea Market: Head to Tristán Narvaja Market on Sundays, where you can shop for antiques, books, food, and other local treasures.
• Walk along La Rambla: Take a stroll along Montevideo’s iconic La Rambla, a scenic waterfront promenade that stretches along the coastline, perfect for enjoying the sea breeze and views of the city’s beaches.
• Visit the Mercado del Puerto: Explore the Mercado del Puerto, a vibrant market offering a variety of local foods, artisan products, and live music. It’s a great place to experience Uruguayan culture and try classic dishes like asado.
• Admire the architecture at Plaza Independencia: This central square is home to Teatro Solís, one of the oldest and most important theaters in South America, and is surrounded by impressive historic buildings.
• Explore Ciudad Vieja: Wander through Ciudad Vieja, the historic old town, with its cobblestone streets, colonial-era buildings, and landmarks like Plaza Mayor and the Museo Torres García.

As mentioned before, most trips to Uruguay include visits to Colonia del Sacramento, Montevideo, and finally Punta del Este. The latter being primarily a luxury beach destination – and me not being much of a beach bum unless scuba diving is involved – I decided to skip it and return to Buenos Aires to continue exploring South America further north.

However, if you do choose to travel to Punta del Este, there are buses departing from Montevideo’s terminal heading that way, and the trip apparently takes about two hours.

Montevideo pictures: