September 16 – September 20 : Alice Springs

Alice Springs is a quiet, somewhat sleepy town, much like Cairns, but set in the desert rather than by the beach.

It also reflects the failure of colonization and the mistreatment of Indigenous people. While I have enough knowledge about the ongoing issues to draw any final conclusions, I’ll share what I observed. Alice Springs is ranked as the 18th most dangerous city in the world, and several locals advised me to avoid walking around after sunset. During the day, many Aboriginal people, seemingly homeless, linger in town, which may give an uneasy feeling when passing by. However, this situation isn’t by choice. Locals explained that decades of neglect, lack of education, easy access to alcohol and other reasons, have trapped many Aboriginal people in a difficult cycle that’s hard to break. It’s important to remember that the struggles faced by the Aboriginal community stem from long-standing systemic issues. While Alice Springs offers some interesting sights, it also highlights the deeper challenges still faced by Indigenous Australians today.

That said, Alice Springs is safe to explore during the day. There are a few attractions, like the Desert Park, where you can spot rock wallabies or snakes, and the Old Telegraph Station, the town’s first building. A day here is plenty, as most don’t travel to central Australia just to see the town. Read more about the highlights in the red centre and how to explore them down below.

• Uluru (Ayers Rock) & Kata Tjuta: The icon of Australia, along with the lesser-known Kata Tjuta rock formation nearby, are still about a 5-hour drive from Alice Springs.
• Kings Canyon: This magnificent canyon is about a 3-hour drive from Uluru and 4 hours from Alice Springs. While it’s not exactly midway between the two, it can easily be included in your route.
• West and East MacDonnell Ranges: Alice Springs is situated right in the middle between these two mountain ranges. The West MacDonnell Range features a multi-day hike that starts or ends at Alice Springs’ Old Telegraph Station.

• One-Day Tour: There are day tours available from Alice Springs for about 200 AUD. Given the distances, you’d spend about 10 hours on a bus just to quickly see Uluru and Kata Tjuta. I can’t imagine that such a rushed experience would be satisfying for anyone, especially considering the time and effort it takes just to get to Alice Springs.
• Multi-Day Tours: Several tour operators offer tours ranging from 3 to 5 days. The friendly staff at the visitor center in Alice Springs will gladly help you navigate the multitude of options and assist you in deciding which tour is right for you, including booking if needed.
  
  I joined a 3-day tour including Kata Tjuta, Uluru and Kings Canyon and I was very happy with it. At 695 AUD, it sounds more expensive than the one-day tour, but remember that it includes 2 nights and several meals! The tour was amazing, with a knowledgeable guide and plenty of time to explore Uluru, including the full 10 km walk around it. We also had ample time to hike the rim of Kings Canyon. While the visit to Kata Tjuta on the first day felt a bit short, I wouldn’t have minded spending more time there. We slept in swags – a kind of heat-preserving sleeping bag with an integrated mattress – under a clear starry sky. In the middle of the desert the sky was very starry indeed, allowing to see the mind-blowing Milky Way with bare eyes. There was also an option to sleep in actual tents with beds for an additional 100 AUD per night.
• Self-Driving: Of course, there is also the option to visit everything on your own. The best choice is to stay in Yulara, a small settlement near Uluru, consisting mostly of tourist accommodations and shops.