October 18 – October 20 : Franz Josef Glacier and northwards

Franz Josef Glacier is a breathtaking natural wonder, one of the few glaciers that descends into a temperate rainforest. Its dramatic ice caves and towering seracs make it a must-visit for adventurers. Whether you’re hiking its rugged trails or taking a helicopter tour, Franz Josef offers an unforgettable encounter with nature’s raw beauty.

Like many of these places, the village primarily serves as a tourist hub, offering bars, restaurants, and accommodations. You’ll also find several tour operators, along with a Wildlife Centre where you can see kiwi birds.

• There are several hikes, including short ones that can be completed in under an hour, offering distant views of the glacier, and two longer hikes that bring you much closer. I did the Roberts Point Track, which took about five hours (up and down). It was quite an adventurous trail, involving scrambling over slippery rocks, crossing swing bridges, and wading through shallow streams. The up-close view of the glacier at the end was absolutely worth it!
• Just like in Cook Mountain village (which would take about 8 hours to reach by car but is in fact just on the other side of the mountains!), you can join a helicopter or plane excursion over the mountain range. It remains a pricey pleasure.
• Wildlife Centre – Visit the West Coast Wildlife Centre to see kiwi birds and learn about local conservation efforts.
• Kayaking – Paddle across nearby Lake Mapourika, surrounded by lush rainforest and stunning views of the Southern Alps.

After spending two nights at Franz Josef Glacier, I made my way up north along the west coast. My goal was to reach Nelson, which is the hub to explore Abel Tasman national park. The drive took about 7 hours pure driving time and I included a stop at Punakaiki to see the so-called Pancake rocks – a layered rock formation which does indeed remind of stacked pancakes. This trip led me from glacier surroundings through tropical beaches and onwards to almost europpean-like forests. I arrived in Nelson by 5 pm which gave me a little time to stroll through this town but not to explore anything beyond it.

Abel Tasman National Park is a tropical paradise with beautiful sandy beaches and lush forest. It features one of New Zealand’s great walks, known for its accessibility due to minimal changes in altitude—most of the trail meanders along the shores within the forest. You can opt for a day hike on a single segment of the track or tackle the full route, which typically takes about three days to complete.

I was pondering about spending a day here but ultimately decided against it and continued to Wellington the next day. I felt that during the past few months I have seen a lot (and will yet see more) of tropical forest-beaches and therefore skipped.

Pictures of Franz Josef Glacier and the landscape on the way to the north: