December 10 – December 13: Santa Ana

Santa Ana, the former capital of El Salvador, is a charming colonial town in the west of the country. It was founded in the 16th century and serves as an ideal base to explore the highlights of western El Salvador. Traveling around the region is easy using local buses, though finding the right one can be a bit challenging due to the lack of schedules and absence of information on Google Maps. Fortunately, locals are incredibly welcoming and often offered their help proactively. Uber is also fully functional and an affordable option for getting around. My B&B was a little over 1 km outside the lively city center, but I never felt unsafe walking the streets, even at night.

From Panajachel to Santa Ana

First, you have to catch a shuttle at 5 am from Panajachel (back) to Antigua, where you arrive around 8 am. You have enough time for breakfast, as the shuttle to Santa Ana only departs at 10 am – IF it departs on time. In my case, I had to wait for an hour until it finally made an appearance at 11 am. I guess that’s just how the cookie crumbles in Latin America. Despite being shorter in distance than some of the trips within Guatemala, it took an incredibly long time, and we only arrived in Santa Ana around 5 pm. It cost 50 USD tp spend hours in a small, uncomfortable vehicle which was filled to the last spot and lacked decent air ventilation. There were also luxury buses for 80 USD, and retrospectively, I think that would have been the better choice.

About El Salvador

Until recently, El Salvador was among the most dangerous countries in the world, with homicide rates rivaling those of Venezuela and Honduras. This began to change dramatically under the leadership of President Nayib Bukele, who took office in 2019. His administration implemented controversial and sweeping measures to tackle gang violence, including the incarceration of over 70,000 suspected gang members under a state of emergency. These efforts culminated in the construction of the Centro de Confinamiento del Terrorismo (CECOT), one of the largest prisons in the world, designed to house tens of thousands of inmates.

While the measures have drawn criticism from human rights organizations for their heavy-handedness, many Salvadorans I spoke to expressed enthusiasm and relief. They view these actions as transformative, helping to reduce the country’s homicide rate to historic lows. Today, El Salvador is being touted as one of the safest countries in Latin America, second only to Canada on the continent.

In addition to its crackdown on crime, El Salvador has gained international attention for its bold adoption of Bitcoin as legal tender in 2021, making it the first country in the world to do so. The government has invested heavily in Bitcoin-related infrastructure, aiming to attract investors and boost financial inclusion. Tourism has also surged, with the sector’s contribution to GDP rising from 3% to 12% in recent years. This growth reflects not only improved safety but also increased interest in the country’s beaches, volcanoes, and cultural heritage.

25e93836-486d-4664-8aa6-525535609741-1_all_86720 — Santa Ana

Things to do around Santa Ana

Santa Ana Volcano (Ilamatepec) – Hike this 2,381-meter-high active volcano to reach its turquoise crater lake, with sweeping views of the surrounding landscape, including Coatepeque Lake. You have to take a local bus at 7:40 from Santa Ana, to arrive at the trailhead around 9:00. This seems to be the only option (unless you want to Uber there). The hike was easy and took about 3,5 hours up and down.
Coatepeque Lake – This volcanic lake is perfect for swimming, kayaking, or dining at lakeside restaurants, offering serene views and warm, inviting waters. It is close to the Volcano and can be done afterwards. Try to be back down from the Volcano at 1 pm to catch the bus going back to Santa Ana and get off in El Congo, which is close to the lake.
Join a walking tour. Check out curlytourssv on instagram, who offers a free walking tour with lots of interesting information around Santa Ana. Don’t forget to tip the man!
Santa Ana Cathedral – Located in the central square, this neo-Gothic cathedral features intricate carvings and a striking white facade that stands out against the cityscape.
Tazumal Ruins – These Mayan ruins in Chalchuapa include pyramids and ancient artifacts, offering a glimpse into pre-Columbian history and civilization.
Ruta de las Flores – A picturesque route dotted with colorful villages, coffee plantations, waterfalls, and vibrant murals, perfect for a day of exploring by car or bus.
Cerro Verde National Park – A lush cloud forest with easy walking trails, stunning viewpoints of Izalco and Santa Ana volcanoes, and cooler temperatures perfect for hiking.
Nahuizalco Night Market – Explore this lively market at night, known for its traditional crafts, local foods, and illuminated stalls that highlight indigenous culture.