January 25 – January 27: Torres del Paine (again)

Torres del Paine is undoubtedly one of the most iconic sights in Patagonia, and the 5-day/4-night W-Trek is a bucket-list adventure for hikers worldwide. A few days earlier, I attempted the one-day hike to the Torres, but bad weather thwarted my plans. The peaks were shrouded in clouds, and despite waiting and hoping for nearly two hours, I had to turn back to catch my bus without ever catching a glimpse of the Torres. Cloudy weather was also announced for the following day, so there was no point in lingering in this area for now.

While I was in Ushuaia, this was brooding in me. I couldn’t accept coming all the way to Patagonia and missing its crown jewel. Determined to make it right, I decided to return to Puerto Natales, not only to retry the 22 km day-hike to Las Torres but also to spend a few extra days exploring large sections of the W-Trek as day-hikes. More on that below.

The W-Trek is a popular route through Torres del Paine National Park, usually done in 5 days / 4 nights. It can be done either from east to west or the reverse. Hikers can choose to stay in simple (yet pricey) lodges for around 200 USD per night, or they can carry their own tent and equipment, camping at the park’s sites, which still costs about 50 USD per night. However, campsites often book out weeks in advance, so this was, once again, not a real option for the spontaneous traveler.
The map below illustrates the classic W-Trek :

I managed to do (almost) the whole trek in 3 days by spending the nights in Puerto Natales and commuting to the park by bus every day. See the map and itinerary description below:

• Day 1: From the Welcome Center (1) to Torres del Paine (2) and back (22 km) :
  
  On the classic W-Trek, this is considered the hardest part due to the steep ascent to Las Torres. Many people who don’t do the full W-Trek opt for this as a day hike, as it’s the most accessible and leads directly to the famous Las Torres viewpoint.
  
  Logistics: You’ll take an early bus at 7:00 AM from Puerto Natales to the park bus terminal (arrival around 8:45 AM). From there, you’ll need to take a shuttle to the Welcome Center (4,500 CLP, cash only!), where you can expect to start hiking around 9:30 AM.
  
  The last returning shuttle departs at 7:00 PM, giving you just over 9 hours to complete the hike – plenty of time, even with its challenging terrain. Your return bus will leave around 8:00 PM, bringing you back to Puerto Natales just before 10:00 PM – perfect for a well-deserved (late) dinner and a good rest before continuing your trek the next day.
• Day 2: From the Welcome Center (1) to Paine Grande (3) (ca. 28 km) :
  
  On day 2, I did the whole part from east to west but skipped the Valle Francés (the part in the middle). This section is usually done in two days, including the Valle Francés, of course. I expected a long but easy day, assuming that hiking along the lake would be relatively flat – oh, was I wrong! The hike is very hilly, not ascending as high as on day 1 but constantly going up and down. This was without a doubt the hardest day of “my” version of the (cut-off) W-Trek.
  
  Logistics: I once again arrived at the Welcome Center around 9:30 AM, as described on day 1. At the end of the hike, I boarded the 6:40 PM shuttle boat from Paine Grande (3) to Pudeto (5), where I caught the 7:15 PM bus, which then continued to pick up more people at the Welcome Center and arrived back in Puerto Natales, like the day before, at 10:00 PM. The shuttle boat (as the bus) needs to be pre booked as it can get full.
• Day 3: From Paine Grande (3) to Glacier Refuge (4) and back (ca. 23 km):
  
  This was probably the easiest day, which was a good thing considering some exhaustion from the two previous days. The hike goes uphill for the first half to a viewpoint in the middle of the trek and then downhill towards the glacier refuge. The way back is, of course, the same—up and down.
  
  Logistics: I took the same 7 AM bus as usual but continued to Pudeto (5) rather than getting off at the Welcome Center transfer point. From Pudeto, I took the shuttle boat to Paine Grande (3), where I started the hike at 11 AM. I had to be back by 6:40 PM, so there was less time than usual. My hostel actually recommended not to do the full hike but to just go to the Mirador in the middle, but I managed to complete the full hike with still an hour of spare time left. If you are a slower walker, check your time and consider making a U-turn around 2 PM. If you miss the boat, not only do you lose your money on that (and the bus) but you will also have to spend 200 USD for a night at the Paine Grande Refuge…

In the end, I’m very happy to have returned to this location after Ushuaia and to not only have seen Las Torres del Paine but also to have figured out a way to do almost the entire W-Trek in just 3 days.

I found my approach to have several advantages:

• Cost-effective: While the buses and boat shuttles aren’t free, they are much more affordable than staying at refuges or even campsites within the park. Plus, the traditional W-Trek still requires booking two buses and a boat.
• No need to carry extra gear: You only need to pack what’s necessary for the day, saving you the hassle of carrying a tent or extra clothes.
• Spontaneous planning: There’s no need to book months in advance. You can plan a day or two ahead by checking the boat shuttle schedule. Be aware, though, that the 6:40 PM boat may sell out a day in advance since it’s used by all the W-Trek hikers. The buses, however, don’t sell out but should still be booked at least a day before.

That said, there are some downsides:

• Time spent on buses: Expect to spend 2-3 hours each morning and evening commuting.
• Time pressure: You’ll need to ensure you finish the hike each day within a set time to catch your return transport. On day 3, especially, it can feel tight.
• Exhaustion: Completing 85% of a 5-day trek in just 3 days is physically demanding, so keep that in mind.
• Sense of accomplishment: While you’ll feel a sense of achievement, you might also feel like you missed out on completing the entire trek. Plus, the return trips to Puerto Natales for the night may feel like somewhat disruptive “interruptions” to the experience.

If hiking in Patagonia feels like too much of an effort, or if it’s simply too far away, you can still enjoy its stunning beauty through the pictures below 🙂